An Illustrious Past

Magnificently Preserved

In the 12th century, the area that would eventually become the center of Graz began to emerge near a protective hilltop.  During the Middle Ages and in Renaissance times, Graz was the residence of the Habsburg monarchy. This was a period of considerable prosperity when provincial aristocrats built magnificent palaces in Graz, many of which remain to this day.  Later history would chronicle incursions by the Ottoman army and an unsuccessful attack on the town's hilltop fortress by the forces of Napoleon. 

Over the centuries,  the cluster of buildings surrounding the hilltop, developed into a heritage of the most important types of architecture from the Middle Ages onward - Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.  In the 20th century, this eclectic architectural mix would expand to Art Nouveau and contemporary design.

Despite the ravages of World War II, with care and conservation, the Old Town of Graz has emerged into the present day as one of the best preserved Medieval City Centers in all of Europe.  Indeed, the pristine condition of this architectural legacy was an important factor for The Old Town's recognition by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site  in 1999.

The remainder of Graz surrounds the Old Town in concentric circles.  In the outer rings, buildings date to the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The nineteenth century was a period of especially significant development, in large measure, to the attention lavished on the city by Archduke Johann.   

The Old Town is unquestionably the heart of Graz.  But, it should be remembered that Graz is a vibrant city with highly developed economic, arts and cultural resources.  The city offers fashionable shopping, featuring famous brands and local designers.  There are also shops offering traditional country fashions by some of Austria's finest tailors.  For those interested in arts, crafts and antiques, the best shopping is on the "art mile," Sackstrasse. 

There is an abundance of excellent restaurants where you can enjoy local Styrian favorites, as well as prized provincial wines.   Most also serve international specialties.  For lighter fare, try one of the many sidewalk cafes or bistros.  The Franciscan Quarter is a popular and stylish meeting place where local delicacies are served in a picturesque setting, amongst preserved medieval houses, the Franciscan Church and an early Gothic Jacobean chapel.

With many bars and cafes, Farberplatz, Mehlplatz and Glockenspielplatz have come to be known as the "Bermuda Triangle" . . . definitely the unchallenged center of night life in Graz. 

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE OLD TOWN

The Schlossberg

The most prominent feature of the city, this green hill rising well above a mosaic of red-tile rooftops, offers spectacular views of Graz.   At one time, it possessed a massive fortress, but on the order of Napoleon most of the defenses were demolished in 1809.  Today, remnants of the fortress, the interior chambers, serve as a handsome open-air theatre.  

A high point of any Schlossberg tour, and the symbol of the city is the Clock Tower.  In 1809, the Clock Tower and Bell Tower were held under threat of destruction by the French forces.  The townspeople of Graz paid nearly 3,000 guilders for their safe release.  With its original mechanism still in use, and one of the oldest bells in the province, the City Clock has ticked away every moment above Graz for almost 300 years. 

The Schlossbergbahn, a funicular railway, is an enjoyable way to take all  the work out of reaching the peak of the Schlossberg.   It has been transporting visitors up and down the tracks of the 61° gradient for nearly 110 years.   For a spectacular descent, try the "Kriegssteig" -a 260 stone staircase that zig-zags down the cliff face to the Schlossbergplatz.  As you exit the Schlossbergplatz, a left turn on Sackstrasse will take you back to the center of the Old Town.  

On your way you will pass the  Stadtmuseum, and the Neue Galerie. The Stadtmuseum's  central exhibit tells the story of Graz from early times to present day.   Another exhibit illustrates the life of the most famous person born in this house, Archduke Franz Ferdinand who was assassinated in Sarajevo in 1914.

In 1941, the Landesmuseum Joanneum divided its art collection and a new section - the Neue Galerie — was set up in the Palais Herberstein on Sackstrasse to house materials from the 19th and 20th centuries.    

A short walk will take you to the Hauptplatz.  This is the heart of the city, the Town Square that dates from 1164.  It is an excellent central point for your exploration of The Old Town.  The current Town Hall (Rathaus) is the third one that has stood on this spot at the southern end of the Hauptplatz.  

Graz: Cultural Capital of Europe for 2003  

The cultural program in Graz for 2003 will present more than 100 projects and over 1000 individual events.   As I discovered recently, arriving in Graz becomes an expression of the City's "cultural force."   Cultural interventions by Peter Kogler (the main railway station) and Flora Neuwith (Graz Airport), explore new experiences of space.  Motorway access roads reflect a foretaste of Graz designed by one of four teams selected for the project.  And, about 20 Art Taxis show video art by a variety of artists - art in motion for the passenger.