GASTRONOMY, WINES & SPIRITS
CAPITAL of GASTRONOMY
Seasoned visitors to Copenhagen have known it for years, but the news that the latest Michelin Guide has awarded nine stars, the same number of stars as Rome, Madrid and Brussels, to the city's restaurants has confirmed that Copenhagen continues as the number one food-lover's destination in Scandinavia. The new Michelin Guide now ranks Copenhagen at number seven out of the best culinary cities in Europe
The 2007 edition of the renowned Michelin Guide, awards a total of nine stars to Copenhagen restaurants, which means that the city now boasts more Michelin stars than any other city in Scandinavia. In fact, the Danish capital has more starred restaurants than you will find in any of the other Scandinavian capitals in Sweden, Norway or Finland.
Michelin stars show that Danish cuisine as a whole has changed radically over the past twenty years, blending southern European influences with the richness of Denmark's natural produce, such as its traditionally excellent dairy produce, its quality, organic fruit and vegetables and, of course, the raw ingredients from its surrounding waters. This change has been led by Copenhagen's restaurants, which, over the last decade in particular, have begun to be recognized by top food writers, gourmets and gourmands from around the world.
The new Michelin-starred restaurants are smaller and owned by younger people who work in the kitchens themselves or as waiters.
Restaurants with Michelin stars are: Noma based in a converted 19th century warehouse beside the harbour in Christianshavn. With experience of working in some of the world's finest restaurants (including The French Laundry in California; El Bulli in Spain), Noma's chef, René Redzepi, has returned to Copenhagen where he now blends the most exciting contemporary techniques with the finest Nordic ingredients sourced from as far away as Iceland, the Faroe Islands and Greenland. A hot tip for the future. In 2005 Noma achieved their first star, and in 2007 a second star was added.
Ensemble in Tordenskjoldsgade run by chefs Morten Schou and Niklaj Egebøl-Jensen. There is one menu, which is changed every fortnight using Danish prime ingredients adding international specialties so that traditional Danish dishes "as our mothers made them" reach a higher and more refined level.
The Paul in Tivoli, named after and run by Paul Cunningham. His culinary ambition is to offer guests an intense gastronomic experience, and with a CV that includes stints at some of Denmark's most renowned temples of gastronomy - including Søllerød Kro - that is guaranteed every time you dine there.
Formel B, a highly acclaimed modern Scandinavian restaurant in the Frederiksberg area of town, is the city's third restaurant to win a new star in 2006. The restaurant's six-course menu ranks among the very best in Copenhagen, if not Scandinavia, as does its simple but luxurious interior.
Furthermore you have Kong Hans, a modern Franco-Danish cellar restaurant housed in one of the city's oldest buildings.
Era Ora's multi-course feasts, and meticulous attention to detail (they fly in ingredients fresh from Umbria weekly) are legendary on the Copenhagen culinary scene.
Mads Refslund, chef, finally opened his own restaurant called MR. He has worked his way via The Paul, Noma and Kokkeriet and now has a place "where I have put my mark in every nook and cranny. What I want is to create a hothouse for the art of cooking." The style is modern European with roots in the traditional Danish kitchen. It has been classified as "Rising Star" in the 2006 edition of the Michelin Guide and in 2007 achieved its first star.
Outside of the city, Søllerød Kro, a historic coaching inn to the north of Copenhagen in Holte, is known for the unfussy, peerless quality cooking of chef Jakob de Neergaard. In 2007 Søllerød Kro was bestowed its first star.
Other restaurants in high esteem are: Close to Sankt Hans Torv in Guldbergsgade and opened in September 2006 is the gourmet restaurant KiinKiin (in Thailand this means "eat eat" or "come-and-eat" and is heard all over at mealtime). In the 2007 edition of the Michelin Guide Kiin Kiin got "rising star". From the restaurant there is a beautiful view over the Jewish Cemetery and the interior has been put in the hands of the group Panta from Bangkok, especially known for their organically formed furniture of bamboo and water hyacinth.
In Kongens Have Chef Rasmus Kofoed who in 2005 won bronze and in 2007 won silver in the Bocuse D'Or (the Biannual Chefs World Championship in Lyon) opened his own luxury restaurant in April, together with Søren Ledet, a friend and colleague known from Noma. The restaurant serves lunch as well as evening meals and is named after the plant: Geranium. This plant is known for its special scent and for its use as a spice in the kitchen. The organic and biodynamical is emphasized on the menu. When twenty-four year old Ronny Emborg won the 'Cook of the Year' award in 2007, immediately following the presentation he was hired by Rasmus Kofoed as second-in-command for his top restaurant Geranium
Bo Bech has recently taken over Restaurant Paustian and, apart from the title of chef on his visiting card, he would be right in adding inventor and alchemist. The magic that comes from his kitchen is such that even a blasé food critic is impressed.
With a vaulted ceiling beneath the Moltkes Palæ you will find Restaurant Prémisse with Rasmus Grønbech at the helm. He offers a personal and innovative kitchen with a touch of the classic in both a six course menu degustation and a'la carte. The chairs are from GUBI and the general design unique.
Kokkeriet is a charming place and is located near Nyboder, the small, yellow row houses that date back to the 1600's. There are small intimate tables and a room in the back for 25 people at an impressive table. The kitchen can be defined as modern European, flavoured with Danish finesse and old traditions. Chef is Lasse Askov who trained at Krogs Fish Restaurant.
Restaurationen is another lavish French kitchen in the city centre, where Bo Jacobsen has reigned in the kitchen for decades.
Bo Bech has recently taken over Restaurant Paustian (rising star in 2007) and, apart from the title of chef on his visiting card, he would be right in adding inventor and alchemist. The magic that comes from his kitchen is such that even a blasé food critic is impressed.
In the Frederiksberg Have Park a romantic choice is Restaurant Gastronomique. Located in orange painted buildings from the 1700's you take a step back a couple of centuries, the interior has stucco ceilings, gilt chairs and a covered terrace overlooking the park, where, weather permitting, meals are now served all year. One of the specialties is their "champagne menu".
At restaurant Saison, in the Park Hotel in Hellerup, renowned chef and cookery author Erwin Lauterback takes special care to help ensure that the fat content of dishes is as low as possible, and that all ingredients are healthy and organic. Chef Jan Friis-Mikkelsen's Tinggården is another out of town gourmet destination (it is located in Frederiksværk, a 45 minute drive from the capital), based in a historic farmhouse dating from 1702. This acclaimed, yet cozy restaurant serves exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal produce, cooked in the classic French style.
Meanwhile at the restaurant named after him, chef Jan Hurtigkarl takes his inspiration from his travels, bringing back ingredients and ideas from around the world. Each year's cuisine takes on different theme, which ensures a stimulating and inspiring experience for his many regular diners.
In the large park by Frederiksberg Palace lies Boutique Hotel Josty, which was founded by Agostino Taddei, Italian sculptor, in 1813. Josty has eight rooms and an a-la-carte restaurant, which can seat 30 guests. The interior décor is a mix of chandeliers, gilt mirrors and Danish design furniture from Gubbi. Josty opened March 2007 with legendary restaurateur Lars Nielsen at the helm.
Tasteplease opened recently with organic bread from its own bakery, delicate take away, artistic cakes, homemade soft drinks, easy food and delicatessen from all over the world. Try homemade nettle biscuits and cheese from small Danish diaries. Many of the special foods are only sold here. To follow up on the respect for the environment, all wrapping is biologically degradable.
Copenhagen Cafe Life, Photo by Christian Alsing
The district of Frederiksberg can now boast a 'deli' inspired from abroad. Claus Meyer has opened Meyer's Deli, a combination of informal restaurant/grocery/coffebar and take-away on Gammel Kongevej. Meyer's Deli has opened another outlet at Kongens Nytorv in the department store of Magasin.
Emmerys has for years been synonymous with excellent, organic bread sold from 10 shops around town. Prepared without yeast, without sugar and without fat. Now following the same concept Emmeryskøkken has opened in Hellerup. The simple and natural gastronomic dishes are served in the restaurant or are sold as take away.
The two Løgismose delicatessen, actually gastronomic supermarkets, offer fine wines and organic delicacies, and is owned by the family involved in the Restaurant Kong Hans and in the Nimb project in Tivoli with planned opening in 2008. (see below)
In the district of Frederiksberg, Egefeld is Copenhagen's first organic super market.
"Copenhagen Cooking", an annual food festival, takes place during the last days of August and the beginning of September. Participants get the chance to sample a gourmet meal in a luxury restaurant at a fraction of the normal price, there are numerous outdoor stalls with edible specialties, a gigantic crayfish party has hundreds of participants, you get to meet food producers and many other activities: www.copenhagencooking.com
A delicatessen with its own dairy, bakery, kitchen and chocolate production, gourmet restaurant, a more informal brasserie and a charming all suite hotel with 12 rooms, all under one roof. This is the recipe for Løgismose-Tivoli's ambitious transformation of Brasserie N'. The former grandeur is now being revived at the legendary address in Tivoli. The key word of the whole project is quality - in the architectural expression, in the furniture, and in everything that the new house will be producing. The building will undergo extensive renovation to restore the famous facade facing Tivoli to its original appearance. Expected opening will be April 2008.
At Israel's Plads plans are that by the beginning of 2009 an approximately 7000 square meter area with granite paving will become Copenhagen's vegetable and flower market. "Torvehallerne" will be made up of stalls 12, 5, 25, 37,5 up to maximum 50 sq. meters to make sure that the stall owners will be mainly small, quality conscious producers of foodstuffs. There will be linden trees surrounding the outdoor stalls and around the lit columns of the steel constructions.
Restaurants in Copenhagen awarded stars by the Michelin Guide 07
Noma (**stars) www.noma.dk, Nordatlantisk Brygge, Tel.: +45 32 96 32 97
Ensemble (*star), www.restaurantensemble.dk, 1, Tordenskjoldsgade, Tel.: +45 33 11 33 52
Søllerød Kro (*star), www.soelleroed-kro.dk, 35, Søllerødvej, Tel.: +45 45 80 25 05
Formel B (*star), www.formel-b.dk, 182 ,Vesterbrogade, Tel.: +45 33 25 10 66 *)
Era Ora(*star), www.era-ora.dk, 33B, Overgaden neden Vandet, Tel.: +45 32 54 06 93
MR (*star), www.mr-restaurant.dk, 5, Kultorvet, Tel.: +45 33 91 09 49
Kong Hans Kælder(*star), www.konghans.dk, 6, Vingårdsstræde, Tel.: +45 33 11 68 68
The Paul (* star), www.thepaul.dk, 3, Vesterbrogade, Tel.: +45 33 75 07 75
Other restaurants mentioned in this article:
Tinggården, www.tinggarden.dk, 182, Frederiksværkvej, Tel.: +45 48 71 22 35
Restaurationen, www.restaurationen.dk, 19, Møntergade, Tel.: +45 33 14 94 95
Restaurant Prémisse, www.premisse.dk, 2, Dronningens Tværgade, Tel.: +45 33 11 11 45
Restaurant Paustian, www.restaurantpaustian.dk, 2, Kalkbrænderiløbskaj, Tel.: 39 16 65 65
Jan Hurtigkarl, www.hurtigkarl.dk, 154,NordreStrandvej, Tel.: +45 49 70 90 03
KiinKiin, http://www.kiin.dk/, 21, Guldbergsgade, Tel.: 35 35 75 55
Pierre André, www.pierreandre.dk, 21, Ny Østergade, Tel.: +45 33 16 17 19
Josty, www.josty.dk, 14A, Pile Allé, Tel.: +45 38 86 90 90
Saison, www.saison.dk, 203, Strandvejen, Tel.: +45 39 62 48 42
Kokkeriet, www.kokkeriet.dk, 64, Kronprinsessegade, Tel.: +45 33 15 27 77
Geranium, www.kongenshave.dk, 13, Kronprinsessegade, Tel.: +45 33 11 13 04
Brasserie 'N', www.tivoligardens.com
Meyer's Deli, www.meyersdeli.dk, 107, Gammel Kongevej
Emmeryskøkken, www.emmerys.dk , 102 A, Strandvejen
Tasteplease, www.lantz.dk, 12, H.C.Andersens Boulevard
Løgismose, www.loegismose.dk, 16 Nordre Toldbod
Løgismose, 9, Willemoesgade,